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| | | Author: | SurplusParts  | | Posted: | May 26, 2024 00:44 | | Subject: | Follow up on Light Grey | | Viewed: | 137 times | | Topic: | Colors | | Status: | Open | |
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| Thanks for those that answered yesterday, i have a follow up question regarding
Light Grey.
Whilst i sell a bit of used parts, they have all been mostly good conditioned
from the last 10 to 15 years. I am know getting into sorting older stuff out
and have found a lot of old space in light grey from the early 1980's.
Yesterdays post i learnt about 'fading' or 'yellowing' of the
light grey. The parts that i have found are in great condition, only some have
faded badly. The colour is very consistent across the entire part though, which
i assume means that the colour has just faded out of the part over years exposed
to light. As opposed to say a more modern part that might just have one side
sun damaged from exposure to UV light directly. Is this correct?
Second part of my question is are these faded parts sellable? In the first photo
the left wedge plate is good, the far right plate is faded and not good. However
the one in the middle with a medium fade. Is this something you would sell?
Or maybe should i collect them all and sell in a custom lot as faded old space
parts?
I have found many good printed parts, such as in the second photo, and i would
hate to waste them.
Thanks
Douglas
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| | | | | Author: | HankOfKits | | Posted: | May 26, 2024 01:11 | | Subject: | Re: Follow up on Light Grey | | Viewed: | 44 times | | Topic: | Colors | |
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| In Colors, SurplusParts writes:
| | Thanks for those that answered yesterday, i have a follow up question regarding
Light Grey.
Whilst i sell a bit of used parts, they have all been mostly good conditioned
from the last 10 to 15 years. I am know getting into sorting older stuff out
and have found a lot of old space in light grey from the early 1980's.
Yesterdays post i learnt about 'fading' or 'yellowing' of the
light grey. The parts that i have found are in great condition, only some have
faded badly. The colour is very consistent across the entire part though, which
i assume means that the colour has just faded out of the part over years exposed
to light. As opposed to say a more modern part that might just have one side
sun damaged from exposure to UV light directly. Is this correct?
Second part of my question is are these faded parts sellable? In the first photo
the left wedge plate is good, the far right plate is faded and not good. However
the one in the middle with a medium fade. Is this something you would sell?
Or maybe should i collect them all and sell in a custom lot as faded old space
parts?
I have found many good printed parts, such as in the second photo, and i would
hate to waste them.
Thanks
Douglas
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It's not actually UV, but rather the fire retardant. People have even gotten
old and completely sealed sets being yellowed as the usage was inconsistent per
set.
Avoiding sun exposure won't prevent it, but using Hydrogen Peroxide can rebrighten
it although it can never be prevented..
I'd make sure to inform that it was used as it could potentially harm kids
if they chew on said parts, plus it weakens the plastic slightly but not enough
to cause major issues.
Various Youtubers have decent tutorials on how to do it, but it does have it's
issues.
So I'd suggest avoiding pieces that you'd rather potentially lose.
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| | | | | | | Author: | SylvainLS | | Posted: | May 26, 2024 06:00 | | Subject: | Re: Follow up on Light Grey | | Viewed: | 36 times | | Topic: | Colors | |
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| In Colors, HankOfKits writes:
| | […]
It's not actually UV, but rather the fire retardant. People have even gotten
old and completely sealed sets being yellowed as the usage was inconsistent per
set.
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That’s wrong.
What’s true is that additives can accelerate the process (see below).
What’s wrong is that a particular additive, bromine is often cited, would be
responsible (or even the sole culprit).
It’s wrong because bromine: 1. evaporates, 2. is the wrong colour (not yellow
or yellowing).
The yellowing is due to a degradation of the plastic.
Light (and particularly UV) adds energy that accelerates the chemical reactions
but it’s not necessary.
The degradation is caused or helped by heat, humidity, bacterias and fungis….
Other “helpers” are traces of other compounds and materials (remnants of solvents,
metals from contact with tools…) and all the additives (mostly dyes but also
compounds added for other reasons, even those added to protect from degration).
As for hydrogen peroxide (or compounds thereof, like RetroBright) and/or UV (some
people “advise” to just leave the parts in the sun “long enough”), they don’t
“reverse” the process, they either “finish” it or simply bleach the parts
(“bleach” as in discolour, using “bleach” (= chlorine) is a worse idea as it
degrades the plastic even more thoroughly and rapidly).
Sources:
https://medium.com/@pueojit/a-look-into-the-yellowing-and-deyellowing-of-abs-plastics-db14b646e0ad
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4320144/
| | Avoiding sun exposure won't prevent it, but using Hydrogen Peroxide can rebrighten
it although it can never be prevented..
I'd make sure to inform that it was used
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Yes.
| | as it could potentially harm kids if they chew on said parts,
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That’s wrong too… unless you add other things to the hydrogen peroxide or let
your kids lick it… or drink it from the bottle. Rincing is enough and it evapores
quickly anyway.
| | plus it weakens the plastic slightly but not enough
to cause major issues.
Various Youtubers have decent tutorials on how to do it, but it does have it's
issues.
So I'd suggest avoiding pieces that you'd rather potentially lose.
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| | | | | | | | | Author: | axaday | | Posted: | May 26, 2024 08:02 | | Subject: | Re: Follow up on Light Grey | | Viewed: | 76 times | | Topic: | Colors | |
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| In Colors, SylvainLS writes:
| | Light (and particularly UV) adds energy that accelerates the chemical reactions
but it’s not necessary.
The degradation is caused or helped by heat, humidity, bacterias and fungis….
Other “helpers” are traces of other compounds and materials (remnants of solvents,
metals from contact with tools…) and all the additives (mostly dyes but also
compounds added for other reasons, even those added to protect from degration).
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I have worked in a refinery lab for 22 years and expect an analogue would apply.
There are a couple of tests that are still required for gasoline certification
to determine how much the fuel will form "gum" over time. This is a
thicker, darker substance that can gradually form over time and cause trouble
for engines. It is the reason people will tell you to get rid of the last of
the fuel in your lawnmower when you put it away for the Autumn.
The cause of gum is that gasoline components are made from heavier hydrocarbons
in processes that leave them not entirely chemically stable. I don't mean
like radioactive, but just a state that is not entirely at rest. Over time,
with heat and oxygen, they tend to turn back to what they were before just like
they did the first time.
I don't work where this test is run anymore, but Clean Fuels legislation
passed around 20 years ago required us to build a unit that pulled more sulphur
out of fuel and I never saw the gum tests fail after that. Taking the sulphur
out makes the gasoline a lot more stable.
I would expect that ABS has a similar thing going. It isn't a naturally
occurring substance, after all. Something about its nature is not really at
rest and over time it will move more toward stability, which is unfortunately
a weird color.
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| | | | | | | | | | | Author: | SylvainLS | | Posted: | May 26, 2024 08:41 | | Subject: | Re: Follow up on Light Grey | | Viewed: | 34 times | | Topic: | Colors | |
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| In Colors, axaday writes:
| | […]
I would expect that ABS has a similar thing going. It isn't a naturally
occurring substance, after all. Something about its nature is not really at
rest and over time it will move more toward stability, which is unfortunately
a weird color.
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Agreed¹, plastic degrades and that’s just that. Aunt Ropy will bury us all….
———
¹ Except for the appeal to nature: “naturally” occuring or not, there’s not many
things that are really at rest… especially as that depends on the time scale
one’s considering  There’s also man-made materials/substances/compounds that
are very stable (some alloys for instance, concrete…).
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| | | | | Author: | Stuart9 | | Posted: | May 26, 2024 04:35 | | Subject: | Re: Follow up on Light Grey | | Viewed: | 35 times | | Topic: | Colors | |
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| Yes, they do sell.
Add note stating that they are faded/yellowed and price accordingly.
Some parts can be very discoloured where you can see a yellow brown colour, these
can sell but not so easily.
I believe some buyers don’t mind when trying to match what they already have.
Having variations in colour of something like a wall in a moc may give it a more
realistic look of age.
My experience only, others may disagree.
In Colors, SurplusParts writes:
| | Thanks for those that answered yesterday, i have a follow up question regarding
Light Grey.
Whilst i sell a bit of used parts, they have all been mostly good conditioned
from the last 10 to 15 years. I am know getting into sorting older stuff out
and have found a lot of old space in light grey from the early 1980's.
Yesterdays post i learnt about 'fading' or 'yellowing' of the
light grey. The parts that i have found are in great condition, only some have
faded badly. The colour is very consistent across the entire part though, which
i assume means that the colour has just faded out of the part over years exposed
to light. As opposed to say a more modern part that might just have one side
sun damaged from exposure to UV light directly. Is this correct?
Second part of my question is are these faded parts sellable? In the first photo
the left wedge plate is good, the far right plate is faded and not good. However
the one in the middle with a medium fade. Is this something you would sell?
Or maybe should i collect them all and sell in a custom lot as faded old space
parts?
I have found many good printed parts, such as in the second photo, and i would
hate to waste them.
Thanks
Douglas
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| | | | | | | Author: | Akir | | Posted: | May 26, 2024 08:35 | | Subject: | Re: Follow up on Light Grey | | Viewed: | 32 times | | Topic: | Colors | |
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| I agree with Stuart, some variation in old gray color is to be expected. The
right wing is doubtful, the patchy colors on this one I wouldn't like much.
The slopes on the other hand will definitely sell, with the gold on the space
logo in this nice condition the discoloring of the gray is a minor problem. (just
my 2c of course...)
In Colors, Stuart9 writes:
| | Yes, they do sell.
Add note stating that they are faded/yellowed and price accordingly.
Some parts can be very discoloured where you can see a yellow brown colour, these
can sell but not so easily.
I believe some buyers don’t mind when trying to match what they already have.
Having variations in colour of something like a wall in a moc may give it a more
realistic look of age.
My experience only, others may disagree.
In Colors, SurplusParts writes:
| | Thanks for those that answered yesterday, i have a follow up question regarding
Light Grey.
Whilst i sell a bit of used parts, they have all been mostly good conditioned
from the last 10 to 15 years. I am know getting into sorting older stuff out
and have found a lot of old space in light grey from the early 1980's.
Yesterdays post i learnt about 'fading' or 'yellowing' of the
light grey. The parts that i have found are in great condition, only some have
faded badly. The colour is very consistent across the entire part though, which
i assume means that the colour has just faded out of the part over years exposed
to light. As opposed to say a more modern part that might just have one side
sun damaged from exposure to UV light directly. Is this correct?
Second part of my question is are these faded parts sellable? In the first photo
the left wedge plate is good, the far right plate is faded and not good. However
the one in the middle with a medium fade. Is this something you would sell?
Or maybe should i collect them all and sell in a custom lot as faded old space
parts?
I have found many good printed parts, such as in the second photo, and i would
hate to waste them.
Thanks
Douglas
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