I got the below question from one of my customers, and I have no idea of the
answer. Does anyone here know the answer?
Thank you.
Hello again. I am wondering if you have much knowledge of these old train battery boxes and motors.
I purchased from another seller part # 766c28 (Electric, Wire 12V / 4.5V with 2 Leads, 28 Studs (22cm) Long with 2 Light Gray Electric, Connector, 2-Way Male Squared Narrow Long with Center Post)
*
766c28 (Inv) Electric, Wire 12V / 4.5V with 2 Leads, 28 Studs (22cm) Long with 2 Light Gray Electric, Connector, 2-Way Male Squared Narrow Long with Center Post Parts: Electric, Wire & Connector {Light Gray}
and
part #766c96 (Electric, Wire 12V / 4.5V with 2 Leads, 96 Studs Long with 2 Light Gray Electric, Connector, 2-Way Male Squared Narrow Long with Center Post (x466c96 / 766c01))
*
766c96 (Inv) Electric, Wire 12V / 4.5V with 2 Leads, 96 Studs Long with 2 Light Gray Electric, Connector, 2-Way Male Squared Narrow Long with Center Post (x466c96 / 766c01) Parts: Electric, Wire & Connector {Light Gray}
I bought these with the intention of connecting some of these old 4.5V motors with the battery box purchased from you. What I did not realize is that the connectors have a center post made out of plastic that prevents it from connecting to the battery box I got from you and some of the old motors I have. I have googled like crazy and cannot find an explanation for this design change.
Do you know if I can just remove the center plastic pin and use it normally? Or was there some reason Lego wanted to prevent people from using these new style wire connectors with the old motors and battery boxes? Any information is appreciated.
I got the below question from one of my customers, and I have no idea of the
answer. Does anyone here know the answer?
Which battery box?
Why not simply vutting the pin and try - as long as both battery and motor have
the same voltage it must be fine. Try it, at 4.5 V and not Li-Po nothing serious
can happen
Thank you.
Hello again. I am wondering if you have much knowledge of these old train battery boxes and motors.
I purchased from another seller part # 766c28 (Electric, Wire 12V / 4.5V with 2 Leads, 28 Studs (22cm) Long with 2 Light Gray Electric, Connector, 2-Way Male Squared Narrow Long with Center Post)
*
766c28 (Inv) Electric, Wire 12V / 4.5V with 2 Leads, 28 Studs (22cm) Long with 2 Light Gray Electric, Connector, 2-Way Male Squared Narrow Long with Center Post Parts: Electric, Wire & Connector {Light Gray}
and
part #766c96 (Electric, Wire 12V / 4.5V with 2 Leads, 96 Studs Long with 2 Light Gray Electric, Connector, 2-Way Male Squared Narrow Long with Center Post (x466c96 / 766c01))
*
766c96 (Inv) Electric, Wire 12V / 4.5V with 2 Leads, 96 Studs Long with 2 Light Gray Electric, Connector, 2-Way Male Squared Narrow Long with Center Post (x466c96 / 766c01) Parts: Electric, Wire & Connector {Light Gray}
I bought these with the intention of connecting some of these old 4.5V motors with the battery box purchased from you. What I did not realize is that the connectors have a center post made out of plastic that prevents it from connecting to the battery box I got from you and some of the old motors I have. I have googled like crazy and cannot find an explanation for this design change.
Do you know if I can just remove the center plastic pin and use it normally? Or was there some reason Lego wanted to prevent people from using these new style wire connectors with the old motors and battery boxes? Any information is appreciated.
It is battery box 3443c04pb02. I did cut the plastic pin and inserted the wire
and connected it to a 4.5V motor and nothing happens. I used a multimeter tool
to test the voltage coming from the battery box and get no reading. I am thinking
the battery box may be faulty.
It is battery box 3443c04pb02. I did cut the plastic pin and inserted the wire
and connected it to a 4.5V motor and nothing happens. I used a multimeter tool
to test the voltage coming from the battery box and get no reading. I am thinking
the battery box may be faulty.
About the plastic pin, the only functional use I can think about would be to
push a button / activate a security, like some secure wall plugs have.
But, honestly with 4.5V or even 12V direct current, haha.
And there could only be a problem if the battery had the hole and expected a
pin and the wire didn’t have the pin.
So, the only use that remains may be to secure the plug a bit more, to have more
friction (the metallic plugs can be compressed) or to not have all the weight
on the metallic plugs.
Note that you can use a 4.5V battery (3LR12) to test the motor. The plugs are
split and can easily pinch the battery’s blades.
It is battery box 3443c04pb02. I did cut the plastic pin and inserted the wire
and connected it to a 4.5V motor and nothing happens. I used a multimeter tool
to test the voltage coming from the battery box and get no reading. I am thinking
the battery box may be faulty.
I see. Could it be corrosion on the switch contacts?
I always have a contact cleaner bottle like (but not) this one.
You may try, it works really well. Also follow the electrical paths with the
multimeter?
I see. Could it be corrosion on the switch contacts?
I always have a contact cleaner bottle like (but not) this one.
You may try, it works really well. Also follow the electrical paths with the
multimeter?
Yeah it might be the corrosion. I have attempted to clean it using baking soda
and water but it still isn't making a connection. I am going to have someone
else look at it tomorrow. Thank you for the advice.
It is battery box 3443c04pb02. I did cut the plastic pin and inserted the wire
and connected it to a 4.5V motor and nothing happens. I used a multimeter tool
to test the voltage coming from the battery box and get no reading. I am thinking
the battery box may be faulty.
soak it in white vinegar. works great cleaning brass contacts. just need to be
careful of stickers if there are any applied.
USA, Oregon
France, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur
